
As I experienced in 2012, (click the following link to view my 2012 blogging goals and year-end progress updates) by tracking these goals periodically, it provides me with more accountability and visibility to what I am doing and where I want to go with this community/blog and in my life. As such, the purpose of this post is to review how I did in 2013 in reaching the aims I set up for myself.
As far as life goes from a personal and blogging perspective, 2013 was a mixed year, with both successes and moderate shortcomings on my goals.
So, here goes! An update on how I did in 2013 for my blogging and personal goals, with updates highlighted in bold text below. This should be fun!
The blogging goals for 2013 were as follows:
In addition, my personal goals for 2013 that I set were as follows:
How about you all? How did you do in accomplishing your personal/professional goals you set for yourself in 2013?
Share your experiences by commenting below!

When it comes to investing, talking about an emergency fund is just about the least exciting sub topic possible.
After all, an emergency fund mostly sits in the bank gathering interest – and not much of it at that. But few people realize the real importance of an emergency fund from an investment perspective, and how it can actually make you a better investor.
Better investor as a result of having an emergency fund? How is that possible? There are several ways…
We can think of an emergency fund as something like “seed money”. It’s the money that you would use to rebuild your finances if you lost everything you had. Until the 20th century, this was often referred to as ”hocking the family jewels”. Since most of us don’t have a treasure trove of jewels safely hidden away in a strongbox, an emergency fund is really the next best thing. Having it well-stocked is a way of making sure that there are “jewels” that can be sold in the event of an emergency.
Every investor should have a certain percentage of their portfolio sitting in safe assets. Exactly how much you will have will depend upon your age, your risk tolerance, and financial factors beyond your portfolio, such as income level, expenses and debt. But no matter what those levels might be, it’s absolutely essential to have at least some money sitting in safe investments.
Emergency funds have the advantage of being the safest of all safe investments. You typically will invest them in nothing more exotic than a savings account or bank money market fund, or in certificates of deposit. It’s not that you can’t invest part of your portfolio in money market funds or certificates of deposit – or even U.S. Treasury securities – but an emergency fund has certain aspects the make even safer than those.
For one thing, since an emergency fund is typically held a local bank, you actually will have physical access to the money in the event of an emergency. It will also be fully covered by FDIC insurance. Similar safe investments held in brokerage accounts have neither the easy access nor the FDIC insurance.
This isn’t to say that an emergency fund will satisfy the need for safe assets in your investment portfolio. You should have some such assets in your basic portfolio, in addition to your emergency fund. But your emergency fund is that “cookie jar” that you keep outside your portfolio, and well beyond the potential for risk investments of any kind.
That kind of safety gives you an extra margin of protection against market shocks and less-than-perfect investment decisions.
One of the silent benefits that an emergency fund has for investors is that it can enable you to keep a clear head at a time when you may be facing financial difficulties on the home front. Imagine you lost your job, but had no short-term savings to cover bills until unemployment checks started coming in? You probably would make some panic moves that you would live to regret later.
Just having an emergency fund available enables you to avoid that panic. That will give you the ability to maintain your long-term investment plans despite short-term disruptions in your income, or sudden spikes in your expenses. An emergency fund acts as a psychological insulator between you and your investments. And that is exactly what you need in order to successfully invest over the long haul.
On a more practical level, an emergency fund can keep you from having to raid your investment portfolio in the event of a crisis. If a crisis were to occur, and you have no emergency fund, you might be tempted to tap your investments in order to raise cash for survival purposes.
If you’re mostly or entirely invested in equity investments at the time, it could force you to liquidate those positions at a bad time. That can result in taking investment losses that you will lock in permanently as a result of selling your positions.
An emergency fund can provide you with the ready cash that you’ll need to meet short-term emergencies and avoid having to disturb your investments at all. At a minimum, the emergency fund will provide you with enough money to enable you to make rational decisions about how you get through the crisis at least in the near term.
There’s much to be said for having your savings and investments arranged in such a way that you can get a good nights sleep on most nights. An emergency fund will help you to do that. Not only will it provide you with a margin of safety in the event of an income disruption or a large expense, but it can also be a welcome safe harbor in the event of market slide that brings down your investment portfolio.
A good nights sleep will enable you to have a clear head, which will make it easier for you to develop a strategy to deal even with problems within your portfolio. It does this by removing the prospect of immediate threats from your life by providing you with a cash cushion.
The next time you get annoyed at the low return you’re earning on your emergency fund, stop and think about the many ways that the fund enables you to be a better investor then you would be without it. Even if it doesn’t provide a good return on your money, an emergency fund is still a perfect investment in so many other ways.
How about you all? How much of an emergency fund do you like to keep on hand?
Aside from the direct benefit of using it to pay for short-term expenses in the event of an emergency, do you feel that having an emergency fund has enabled you to be a better investor?
Share your experiences by commenting below!
***Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/79818573@N04/8719057729/
Hello there everyone!
The past few months have been quite eventful, with planning to finish my PhD by next August, starting the job-finding process, starting an internship with the University’s licensing / commercialization office, getting engaged/planning our wedding for September 2014, and trying to submit a journal article to the ACS Journal of Chemical Biology here in the next few weeks.
Anyhow, with 2013 now being just a memory, it’s time to review the progress on my net worth realized the past year! So, without further ado, let’s get started – first with reviewing my net worth growth during 2013! As always, if you have any questions, please ask via email or commenting below!
As I’ve mentioned before, the goal of this running net worth and asset allocation progress update series is two-fold:
Overall, I would say that 2013 went amazingly well from a financial perspective. I’ve been able to make a lot of progress towards my personal, professional, and financial goals (even raised a total of $11,000 for the MS Society with my MS Bike Ride!).
In particular, I’ve been able to efficiently leverage my three-legged retirement stool accounts (Roth IRA, taxable account, and Roth 401k). And, I’ve been able to invest significantly in my blogging goals with the help of several amazing staff writers on the site.
On top of that, the overall market did very well during the past 12 months!
With all of the up and down that has occurred, let’s take a look and see how it affected my net worth progress…shall we?
In October of 2011, I had to make a fairly significant change in how I calculate my net worth and asset allocation percentages each month. The change pertained to the cash I consistently save up throughout the year in a high interest online savings account (Dollar Savings Direct) in order to pre-pay self-employed or unpaid (from my graduate research fellowship) income tax to the government in the form of quarterly tax payments. What was happening was that the balance in this tax savings account (which was being counted in to the cash portion of my asset allocation) was becoming too large, and it started to skew my asset allocation calculations.
To remedy this, since October of 2011, I’ve started using a system of calculating my liquid net worth, which includes all of my various equity and fixed income holdings but excludes 1) my equity and debt related to my condo and 2) the amount of savings I have accumulated so far during the year earmarked to pay the tax man. I’ve decided that doing the analysis in this fashion helps me remain more objective in making financial decisions without being influenced by assets that are needed for shorter-term living/tax expenses.
Keeping this important change in mind, let’s continue…
From 27-December-2012 to the beginning of Jan, 2014, the S&P 500 index increased 28.09%. Pretty awesome by any standard you think about really!
During that time period (January-December 2013), my liquid net worth (excluding condo ownership and unpaid tax savings) increased 31.27%, which seems pretty good since I do not have full equity exposure in my portfolio (only 70% equity – more details below).
With an ~30% increase in the overall market, several important things come to my mind for investors going forward:
I still currently have 19.88% home ownership in my condo, with this accounting for 13% of my real net worth (so net worth subtracting the condo loan – this is different from the net worth figure discussed above).
As I continue to learn more and more about advanced personal finance topics, I have become quite sure about one thing – I am not the biggest fan of aggressively building up as much home equity as is possible. While I am sure that home ownership is a great idea for personal finance success, I don’t believe that pre-paying a mortgage far beyond what is required is a very good investment (unless the mortgage loan interest rate is very high).
Why is this? Because the money that you pay over and beyond what is required (even though it is saving a little bit on interest, which is tax-deductible, so not really that much savings) is not gaining you any type of return whatsoever – it is essentially money stuffed under a mattress.
Instead, I have been taking the money I have leftover and maxing out my Roth IRA, then saving an equivalent amount in an after-tax account, and then using any that is then left over to contribute close to the maximum allowed for my Individual Roth 401k account.
In November 2011, I became fascinated/interested enough in Harry Browne’s Permanent Portfolio asset allocation strategy in order to give it a small trial run with my own money (less than 1% of my liquid net worth). As such, I’ve decided (for fun!) to start tracking the performance of my small ETF version of the Permanent Portfolio in order to compare it to how the market is doing.
While holding the Permanent Portfolio from the end of December 2012 to the beginning of January 2014, the Permanent Portfolio decreased in value by 4.88%. During this same time period, the S&P 500 index increased by ~28%. So, looks like it did not perform better than the general equity market during this time period. However, one really cool thing I’ve noticed about this portfolio is that it is indeed very stable – with it never dropping or gaining more than 1% or so in any given month. Just as Harry Browne predicted, eh?!
In addition, it is also very apparent that the strategy has A LOT of tracking error with the overall market. So, ask yourself whether you think you would be OK missing out on big gains in the stock market like the one over the past year in exchange for more stability before committing significant money to the Permanent Portfolio.
We’ll continue to keep an eye on this portfolio in 2014 and beyond. Should be interesting to see what happens!
In December 2013, I researched/published a post about how regular folks can make their current or future children millionaires by saving $1 per day for 23+ years and then letting the money sit and grow until the child retires at age 65.
In this same post, we examined whether an annuity or regular/taxable mutual fund account would be a better home for these savings. What we saw was that a regular mutual fund would yield more savings in the end because of the favorable long term capital gains taxation that you receive.
Anyhow, I decided that I would set one of these accounts up for my future child now since it is so easy to do. Because I didn’t want to commit $3000 to fulfill the minimum investment requirements for a Vanguard mutual fund, I decided to put these savings in to a taxable ETF account, containing the following ETF – Vanguard Total World Stock ETF (VT). I choose this ETF because it has a low expense ratio, good exposure to US + international stocks, and most of all, I didn’t already own this ETF so I could maintain segregation of this account from my existing ones.
The current balance is $59 (1 share). We’ll keep monitoring this one and see how it grows over the years! 🙂
While the overall percentages for these categories look fairly good, a detailed look (table/listing below) at the allocation breakdown reveals the real story and provides for better analysis of the current state.
Remember: In order to maximize the benefits of your asset allocation strategy, a red flag goes off if your current % allocation in a category is greater than +/- 25% change from the target allocation. This is my trigger that I need to rebalance that aspect of my portfolio.
| % Cash (Target 10%) |
12.40% |
| % Non-Inflation Bond Funds (Target 12%) |
12.56% |
| % TIPS Bonds (Target 8%) |
6.52% |
| % International Equity (Target 10%) |
10.94% |
| % International Emerging Markets (Target 11%) |
8.64% |
| % Domestic Large Cap (Target 7%) |
8.27% |
| % Domestic Small Cap (Target 7%) |
7.61% |
| % Domestic Small Cap Value (Target 13%) |
13.32% |
| % Domestic Large Cap Value (Target 12%) |
12.13% |
| % REIT (Target 10%) |
7.61% |
Analyzing my current asset allocation percentages, it appears that my current asset allocation is aligned with my target levels within the +/- 25% band limits. Thus, no action is needed at this time.
I added a new financial goal added during the 1st half of 2013 to continue building, optimizing, and balancing a Three-Legged Stool for Retirement.
The idea behind this strategy is to target having a 1/3 split between tax-free, tax-deferred, and taxable accounts by the time you hit retirement in order to have flexible control over your income sources so that you can optimize your tax bracket each year.
Since I am in the 15% tax bracket, I first maxed out my Roth IRA for 2013. My next move was to contribute an equivalent amount in an after-tax investment account in order to have money that is accessible for needs prior to retirement. Having completed that, I am now working towards maxing out my contributions to a Roth Individual 401k with Vanguard.
Listed below is my current asset location split between the three-legged stool account types:
On one hand, I have been very satisfied with how I have been able to increase my three-legged stool tilt towards tax-free and taxable accounts and away from tax-deferred accounts in 2013, focusing especially on contributing to my Roth IRA and Roth 401k.
However, as you can see by the percentages above, I still have a ways to go to increase my tax-free allocation. This is especially important for me right now since I am in a very low tax bracket in graduate school (but also have fairly limited cash in terms of being able to pay the income tax to convert tax-deferred money to tax-free accounts).
2014 is going to be a big/busy/involved year for me financially, emotionally, and intellectually. Because of this, it’s tough to fit in all of my next financial moves in to one small section of a post. However, just off the top of my head, I need to get started with the following things:
How about you all? How did you progress with your net worth in the July-December 2013 time-frame? What are your thoughts about the strength of the market right now? Do you think it’s getting too overvalued?
What financial challenges are you currently facing?
Share your experiences by commenting below!
Happy New Year everyone!
I hope you all have enjoyed the holidays, were able to relax with family and friends, and got to have some champagne to bring in the New Year!
For the past week and a half, my fiancé and I have been on the road and in the air away from our home in Virginia. First, we celebrated Christmas with her family in Northern Kentucky (a little south of Cincinatti). Then, we headed out to my childhood home in Arkansas for my sister’s engagement party and to celebrate New Year’s. Currently, we are on our way back to Virginia to get started working again after the weekend.
Back in January of last year, I set my financial goals for 2013. Since the year is now officially finished, I figured it would be a good time to sit down and take a few minutes to review how I did in reaching or NOT reaching (in some cases) the various targets I set for myself.
Overall, I would rate 2013 as top-notch financially and personally. I got engaged back in March of 2013, and am planning to finish my PhD by August of 2014 and get married shortly after. On top of that, the stock market has increased over 25%! Nice!
So, here goes, a review (in bold below) on how I did in 2013 reaching my financial goals. Enjoy, and I look forward to reading any comments you all have!
How about you all? How did you do with your financial goals for 2013? What techniques do you find are most effective in holding yourself accountable and on-track for your goals you set?
Share your experiences by commenting below!

Wouldn’t be amazing if we could actually accomplish our New Year’s Resolutions? As in, wouldn’t it feel incredible to completely, 100% succeed in meeting or exceeding them?
Well, if you want to actually make some good goals and have 2014 be the most amazing year yet, I have some sneaky tricks that will help you to get there.
Here they are below:
A year is definitely a long time. I mean, can we really promise ourselves to not say a curse word for all 12 months of it?
Or, can we really expect ourselves to stay out of a fast food joint for the entire year? I mean, there are always exceptions and special circumstances that cause us to break our resolutions, and if you’re anything like me, breaking resolutions causes you to beat yourself up.
We don’t need that this year!
So, let’s make some month-to-month resolutions. Maybe January can be the month of flossing your teeth every day. Perhaps February can be the month of reading one book that you’ve really wanted to enjoy. You can really do anything for 30 days, so maybe if you set a time limit on your resolutions, they will actually get accomplished!
Why do your resolutions always have to be so awful?
I mean, why give up eating bread when you can make resolutions that are fun and exciting? For example, you can make a resolution to keep up with movies this year. I am horrible at movie conversation. At a party, when someone says a movie quote and everyone laughs, picture me standing there with a blank look at my face. I have no idea what you are talking about when you give a movie quote, and it’s something I should work on!
Another example is keeping up with old friends, which is my husband’s New Year’s resolution. My husband has gotten so busy and so caught up with medical school that he rarely has time to send an e-mail to some of his best friends growing up. He’s made it his goal to do a better job of staying in touch with them in 2014. Everyone loves getting e-mail and snail mail, so that should be a relatively painless and fun resolution to work on this coming year.
One tip I always give people is to share your resolutions with others, but my ultra sneaky tip is to actually get on a “Resolution Team.”
For example, don’t just tell someone you want to lose weight. Actually find someone that shares that same goal, and work together with them to get ‘er done. If you want to give up drinking Diet Coke, don’t just tell your coworkers. Try and rally them and make everyone who shares an office with you do the same thing.
Resolutions are much easier to keep when you stamp out temptation, so be the person who gets everyone else excited about goals so that you can accomplish something amazing.
Don’t get me wrong; big goals are great.
I love it when people say they’re going to pay off 500k worth of debt. However, the bigger the goal, the harder it is to make it happen.
So, why not start with something teeny tiny? I’m talking about drinking an entire bottle of water every day or trying to touch your toes every day. This type of resolution takes pretty much zero time and zero effort. I’m not trying to encourage you to be lazy about your resolutions. I’m just trying to show you that you can feel accomplished and give yourself a pat on the back for actually sticking to them if you make goals that are reasonable.
I know you might think this is cheating, but there’s no sneakier way to accomplish your goal than to pick one that’s already halfway done!
So, if you’ve started organizing your garage, make a resolution to finish it. If you’ve already changed out two of the doorknobs in your house, then make it a goal to fix the rest of them. Basically, it’s a sure fire way to feel accomplished because the goal has already been started and you already know how to do whatever it is that you’ve chosen.
Ultimately, setting New Years Resolutions is definitely a great thing to do every year. However, the reason people fail to accomplish them is because they make it too hard on themselves! Next year, be sneaky! Try the tricks above so that you can feel great and tell the world that you stuck to your goals and did something awesome to improve yourself.
How about you all? What are your 2014 resolutions? Are you going to be sneaky and accomplish them? Share your experiences by commenting below!
***Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/photoann/6605711959/sizes/l/
The following is a guest post by Squiggle over at www.financesquiggle.com. To read further on investing strategies, see his post on the best way to invest $10,000. Enjoy!
Talking to most stock investors, you’ll hear of attempts to maximize returns or beat the index. Those who strictly adhere to the Efficient Market Hypothesis (EMH) contend that the stock market is too competitive and that stock prices reflect all readily available information, making consistently above average returns impossible. Hand-in-hand with EMH supporters, Random Walk Theory proponents will tell you stock prices are simply too random for you to achieve above average returns in the long-run.
The research is mixed, however. Many studies show that certain types of stocks tend to have better returns. Below is a summary of some of the evidence supporting investing in stocks with high dividend yields.
Tweedy, Browne Company LLC published a fascinating paper strongly in favor of investing in stocks with high dividend yields. One study in the U.K found that from 1955 to 1988, the decile of stocks with the highest dividend yields had a compound annual return of 19.3% compared to 13.0% for the index.
O’Shaughnessy Asset Management has a similar paper supporting high dividend yields. In a US study from 1930 to 2011, the top decile of dividend yield stocks had a compound annual return of 11.6% vs. 10.2% for all US stocks. Even more exciting, from 1990 to 2011, the top decile of dividend yield stocks worldwide had a compound annual return of 14.8% vs. 6.9% for the index of all stocks. The top decile beat the benchmark in 100% of the 5 year rolling periods throughout.
Credit Suisse published another promising paper on the topic, with an added twist. The firm examined the returns in 12 countries and reached the same conclusion that high dividend yields produce superior returns. They also examined a second variable of payout ratio (the percentage of net income paid out as dividends). In the majority of the countries studied, the combination of high yield, low payout ratio produced the best returns (in a few cases high yield, high payout won). For example, in the United States from 1990 through 2008, the high dividend yield, low payout ratio portfolio had the highest compound annual return of 15.4%, while the S%P 500 returned 8.4% annually.
Despite the research, high dividend yield funds haven’t been fairing well in the last several years. Here are three examples vs. the S&P 500 since their inception.
From March 20th, 2007 to December 16th, 2013 the S&P 500 beat the Vanguard High Dividend Yield Index Fund (VHDYX) 28.8% to 16.57%.
From October 19, 2007 to December 16th, 2013, the S&P 500 beat Tweedy, Browne’s Worldwide High Dividend Yield Value Fund (TBHDX) 14.69% to 10.47%.
From September 17, 2010 to December 16, 2010, the S&P 500 beat the O’Shaughnessy Enhanced Dividend Fund (OFDIX) 61.0% to 23.32%.
Unfortunately, high dividend yield funds have not been performing well in the last several years. However, the research in favor of stocks with high dividend yields is robust. Those with high dividend yields tend to outperform those with low dividend yields handily (especially those with a low payout ratio). As with most strategies that have shown outperformance over the long run, there are periods of underperformance.
Despite this recent lag, decades of sound research make this strategy worthwhile as part of your portfolio for the long-term. Diversification is one of the cornerstones of personal finance, so it’s best to dedicate only a fraction of your investments to high dividend yield stocks. Additionally, research shows that funds with low fees outperform those with higher fees over long periods. Accordingly, dedicating part of your portfolio to the Vanguard High Dividend Yield ETF (VYM), with a low expense ratio of 0.10%, is an excellent investment choice.
How about you all? Do you think it is possible to beat the market returns by investing in high yield dividend stocks or a dividend-based index fund? Share your experiences by commenting below!
References
Patel, Pankaj N., Souheang Yao, and Ryan Carlson. “Quantitative Analysis: Global Dividend Strategy.” Credit Suisse, 23 Jan. 2009. Web.
“The High Dividend Yield Return Advantage.” Tweedy, Browne Company LLC, 2007. Web. 16 Dec. 2013.
Viswanathan, Ashvin. “Dividend Yield vs. Dividend Growth.” O’Shaughnessy Asset Management, 20 Sept. 2012. Web. 16 Dec. 2013.

People receive financial advice in a number of ways. Some people turn to friends and loved ones that they perceive as being successful financially for advice on how to manage their finances. Others choose the assistance of a financial advisor who is paid to help them manage their finances effectively. Now, there are dozens of new investing and personal finance-themed startups that are designed to make financial management easier for all consumers.
These companies offer everything from algorithm-based investment advice to online financial advisor search tools to online financial planning and budgeting tools.
LearnVest originally started as a budgeting Web site directed at women.
Today, LearnVest offers both online financial advisor services as well as free budgeting tools. In the four years that the company has been in operation, it has provided comprehensive and conflict-free financial advice to the middle class.
Founder Alexa von Tobel wanted to make financial advice as widely available and affordable as any other mass-produced consumer product or service. LearnVest charges a $399 upfront fee and $19 a month, or $608 annually, for its financial planning services. Customers that are just interested in reaching a particular financial goal, like paying off debt or starting a budget, can obtain help for less.
LearnVest recently received another large round of financing from investors which will allow the company to expand its hiring as well as open a training and adviser hub in Phoenix. The company will be releasing a newly designed product, a seven-step customized financial plan, in the near future. The company is also working on a potential deal with American Express, one of its new investors, and is working with employers and financial planning firms to sell its program within 401(k)’s.
Betterment offers straightforward online tools that allow savers to manage their investments themselves. Betterment allows people to roll over their personal or corporate retirement plan and they can connect their bank accounts to Betterment’s own systems. People who move their retirement or savings accounts to Betterment can choose from index and exchange-traded funds from Vanguard and iShares. Customers also have the choice to leave most of the decision-making to Betterment’s software by inputting information about their goals and risk tolerance.
Betterment charges an annual fee on the assets it manages. The fee for Betterment’s no-minimum account begins at 0.35% annually. Customers who can afford to put more in and elect to maintain higher account balances are charged lower rates. The company currently manages more than $200 million in assets for thousands of customers, mostly in the form of savings and retirement accounts.
Betterment CEO Jon Stein believes the financial services industry should use crisply designed technologies that make financial management easier, smarter and more efficient. Betterment is very user-friendly, so if someone doesn’t have any specific financial goals set, the site will suggest some based on what other users with a similar income level or profession profile are saving for. Betterment tries to cut through the complexity to make financial decisions as easy as possible for the account holder.
Sigfig offers algorithm-based investment advice based on users’ aggregated accounts. The company’s advice gives investors recommendations for how to optimize their investment portfolio with regards to fees, management expenses, and risk adjusted returns. SigFig allows its user to link accounts from more than 100 different brokerages. The company also offers weekly suggestions for saving money and improving investment performance.
SigFig was initially known as Wikinvest, an investment tracking wiki. The company changed to its current advisory business model in May 2012 after becoming an SEC-licensed Registered Investment Advisor (RIA). According to co-founder and CEO Mike Sha, the company relies on data-driven analysis to deliver “unbiased, scientific portfolio recommendations.”
SigFig utilizes a business-to-business-to-consumer (B2B2C) distribution model. The company licenses its Web and mobile investment tools to publisher partners in exchange for a revenue share. SigFig also generates referral fee revenue when a consumer switches to investment advisors recommended by the company. The company doesn’t take commissions on trades or collect an asset management fee.
Jemstep is a money-management website that lets retail investors import their retirement-account data and get automated advice. The company was founded in 2008 by Michael Blumenthal, a former stockbroker who is now the company’s co-chief executive officer. Today, the company has a membership of around 2,000 users, including employees at Google and EBay.
In January, Jemstep began offering its automated portfolio manager to the public as a free service. For suggestions about specific funds to buy and sell, the company charges a flat monthly fee that starts at $18 per month and is based on the size of the user’s retirement portfolio. Advice on asset allocation is free.
The service will remain free for those managing less than $25,000 in retirement assets, but for those managing larger portfolios, the cost can be as high as $70 per month. However, those with larger portfolios also get to take advantage of the company’s portfolio analysis service as well as tracking and rebalancing advice.
How about you all? What do you think of these services? Have you used LearnVest, Jemstep, Betterment, or Sigfig?
Share your thoughts with us. Share your experiences by commenting below!
Photograph: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68751915@N05/6848822477/

A general guiding rule is that as many equity mutual funds as possible should be held in taxable accounts, and taxable bond funds and REITs should be placed in tax-advantaged accounts. Of course, this assumes that you have the choice/flexibility to do this, that you have also first funded your tax-advantaged retirement accounts, and have enough money in taxable accounts to fund short-term needs.
Page 150 of Bill Bernstein’s The Intelligent Asset Allocator provides a very nice, succinct summary of where each type of mutual fund should go. This list is shown below for the Vanguard family of mutual funds:
In general, value funds and REITs should only be held in tax-sheltered accounts due to the following reasons:
–Vanguard Value Index Fund
-Vanguard Short-Term or Intermediate Term Inflation Protected (TIPS) Fund
-Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund
-Vanguard Small-Cap and Small-Cap Value Index Funds
-Vanguard REIT Index Fund
-Vanguard Short, Long, or Intermediate-Term Bond Index Fund
-Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund
These funds should only be held in tax-sheltered accounts because they have a good amount of buying and selling involved in maintaining the index representation, which can in turn increase your tax risk.
There are several types of funds which make zero sense to hold in a tax-deferred account, since these funds manage taxes in such a way that give you a lower return in exchange for less tax liability.
–Vanguard Tax-Managed Growth and Income Fund
-Vanguard Tax-Managed Small-Cap Fund
-Vanguard Tax-Managed International Fund
-Vanguard Tax-Exempt [Anything – Bonds, etc] Fund
Although it is acceptable to hold equity mutual funds in tax-sheltered accounts, if possible and with all else being equal, it is best to try to hold them in taxable accounts. This is especially true for international equity funds since they allow investors to use a foreign tax credit to offset some US taxes owed.
Another general rule is that the broader the definition of the asset class mutual fund, the more tax-efficient it will be (for example, emerging markets vs. total international stock fund). Also, large cap funds are more tax-efficient than small-cap funds.
The following feature makes holding equity funds in taxable accounts preferable:
–Vanguard S&P 500 Index Fund
-Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund
-Vanguard European Stock Index Fund
-Vanguard Pacific Stock Index Fund
-Vanguard Emerging Markets Stock Index Fund
-Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund
Since starting to employ this concept in my personal finances 3-4 years ago, I have realized that optimizing the asset location decision is not very straight forward (read: not as cut-and-dry as the groupings above would lead on to be) because of many complicating factors, including setting up different accounts at different times, balancing the need to fully fund retirement accounts prior to taxable ones, and mutual fund minimum balances.
As such, I wanted to share a very useful listing I found in Larry Swedroe’s book, The Only Guide You’ll Ever Need for the Right Financial Plan, that ranks mutual fund classes by the preference to hold the fund in a tax-deferred/tax-advantaged account.
In other words, #1 below = the fund asset class having the highest priority/need to be housed in a tax-advantaged account, and #14 = asset class that does better in a taxable account.
How about you all? When you are first buying a mutual fund, do you consider what type of account it should be placed in for maximal tax efficiency, or is your buying/location decision based on other factors?
Do you follow asset location principles similar to the ones mentioned here or another strategy?
Share your experiences by commenting below!
***Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/rmgimages/4882451618/sizes/m/in/photolist-8rrQLj-gXa2Mf/

As the title suggests, the book’s overall message is that if you take some well-timed steps, it’s easy to accumulate a large amount of wealth for your child by the time the he or she reaches retirement. While there were many specific points covered in the book, the two key questions/themes that I am exploring in this post series are listed below:
In Part 1 of this series, we found that because of the power of compounding interest, saving $1 per day starting when your child is conceived through the time he or she graduates from college can yield almost $2 million for them by the time they are ready to retire.
Having been convinced of the importance of starting to save for your child’s financial future and developed a strategy, the question then becomes, “In what type of account/savings vehicle do you place your child’s retirement savings?”
Let’s explore this concept a little more in-depth today!
Let’s face it – there are a myriad of options available in today’s competitive market place for savings vehicles. So, how does one decide which type of account is best to use?
In order to help with the selection, I’ve listed the criteria I would use to help narrow down the options:
Criteria #1 – Account must have low cost, passively-managed equity index mutual funds. As we’ve established many times before, index funds beat 70% of professional active money managers, so I have no business trying to actively manage my funds as a part-timer. We want to have the account eligible for equity (stock-based) mutual funds because our investment time horizon is 65 years, meaning that we can shoulder a lot of risk during that time period and do not need to add much in the way of fixed income instruments. As such, this rules out products such as whole life insurance and a tax-exempt municipal bond fund.
Criteria # 2 – Account will not be used for short-term child financial needs, but rather for the child’s financial future near/during retirement. As we discussed in Part 1, the goal of saving $1 per day for your child is not to cover the ever-expensive cost of raising a kid (nor would it yield a sufficient amount of money in a short period), including sending them to whatever college they choose. As such, tax advantaged college savings plans, including Coverdells, 529s, UTMAs, etc, are disqualified from the selection.
Criteria #3 – Account has no income requirements and is not required to be transferred out of your personal control at a set point and/or is owned by the child. If all goes according to plan, the $1 per day that you gradually save will be transferred to your honest, hard-working, deserving child when they reach a ripe retirement age. However, if your child turns out to be someone who misuses money and cannot be trusted, you want to make sure that you can retain control over the savings. Taking this criteria in to consideration exludes IRAs / 401ks in the child’s name from the running. Even though you could technically save money in YOUR OWN IRA/401k and simply use it for your child once you are retired, we will work under the assumption that YOU need your retirement savings.
Having laid out these 3 criteria, where does that leave us?
Essentially, 3 options remain – a taxable/regular mutual fund account in your name, a variable annuity in your name, or some form of trust set up by a lawyer. While I do believe that trusts are a suitable option (will be covered in an upcoming post by one of our staff writers, Jeff), this post is aimed at things normal folks can do. Thus, we’ll limit it to accounts that can be set up without paying lawyer fees.
In his book, McKinley’s calculations come to the conclusion that a variable annuity will result in more money during retirement for a child vs. a taxable mutual fund account.
The reasoning provided behind this is that the tax-deferral in an annuity provides more money to be eligible for compounding vs. a mutual fund. However, in his calculations, McKinley assumes that the taxable mutual fund earns 10% each year and distributes all of these gains as normal taxable income. He then proceeds to say that this calculation may not accurately represent how mutual funds today operate. Thus, I wanted to see what was really going on here.
Having covered the ins and outs of annuities pretty in-depth in a recent post, I just wanted to provide a brief summary of annuity characteristics:
For our comparison, we’ll assume:
Before we proceed, we need to obtain an in-depth understanding of exactly what tax liability we are responsible for each year by holding the Total Stock Market Index mutual fund in a regular account.
In other words, if we assume a 10% increase in account value each year, how much of that gain will be owed in taxes in the specific year that will affect our compounding interest power? My first guess is that it is not the full 10% account value increase…
To review, there are 3 primary ways that an equity mutual fund can result in taxes that you have to pay:
To figure out how much tax the dividends and capital gains distributions would translate to on a per year basis to pay, I looked back on my 1099-DIV for 2010, 2011, and 2012 from Vanguard for a similar fund.
As we’ve seen so far, deciding between a deferred variable annuity and a regular taxable mutual fund account for long term savings for your child’s retirement is not exactly simply. Furthermore, it requires quite a bit of knowledge of the tax code as well.
To make some final conclusions about which vehicle is better, we need to run some calculations using what we’ve learned. A copy of the spreadsheet that I put together is shown here, and I highlighted the key findings in the summary table below.
I included 3 scenarios – annuity, regular mutual fund, and a regular mutual fund where each year’s taxes are paid from another source other than distributed dividends.
Annuity
The first calculation I ran was for the stand alone variable deferred annuity. Even though the annuity did have a >2x higher expense ratio than the mutual fund account, the nice thing was that all of the money was able to compound free of taxes until withdrawal.
However, the annuity gets killed by taxes on the withdrawal side (see red highlighted box in table above), and results in the lowest amount of money left to your child.
Even though the contributions/premiums you paid in to the annuity are tax free to withdrawal, every bit of appreciation in account value beyond that gets taxed as ordinary income at 35% when it comes out.
This is somewhat unfair because much of that increase in account value has been due to dividends (which would have been qualified if held outside of the annuity) and long term capital gains on shares you have held for MANY MANY years. However, these all get lumped as “earnings” in annuity language, which are taxable at the ordinary rate. It hurts!
Regular Mutual Fund
Even though the regular, taxable mutual fund account has a lower expense ratio than the annuity, the account gets beat out during the accumulation phase by the annuity since a portion of the distributed 4.40% annual qualified dividend are being used to pay the 15% tax on said ordinary dividend.
However, the benefits on the liquidation side make up for any accumulation shortcoming, allowing for the final after-tax amount of the mutual fund to be >17% higher than that of the annuity (green highlighted cell in above table).
“How does this happen?” – you might be asking.
Essentially it boils down to 2 things:
Regular Mutual Fund, But Paying The Qualified Dividend Tax From Another Source
One of the books that I recently read was Ric Edelman’s (one of my favorite authors in finance) book, The Truth About Money. In the book (page 84 to be exact), he mentions that, “In all our 1,000+ collective years of practice as financial planners and investment advisors, having worked with thousands of clients and with $5 billion in client assets, we have never seen a client sell a bond or liquidate a bond fund in order to raise the cash needed to pay the taxes that Schedule B are owed.”
And, reading this got me thinking about how it might apply to this strategy of saving money for a child’s retirement. What this means is that in practice, normal folks might pull the money for the dividend taxes owed on the mutual fund from another source vs using the account value and/or dividend to do so. And, if this were the case, I was curious what financial ramifications it woudl have for the child’s retirement savings.
Taking this in to consideration, I put together the 3rd scenario analysis listed in the table above.
Using this strategy, having a similar liquidation scheme as the regular mutual fund scenario described previously, your child would end up with >61% more money (tan cell in above table) than the annuity strategy, and >41% more money than the mutual fund strategy where account value is used each year to pay taxes. Not too shabby, right?!
In summary, we have laid out several criteria needed for an appropriate account/savings vehicle in which to place the $1 per day that we discussed in Part 1 that could make your child a millionaire by the time he or she retires. By doing this, we narrowed down the options to 2 vehicles – 1) a deferred variable annuity and 2) a regular, taxable mutual fund.
From there, we found that even though annuities defer taxes during the accumulation phase, the fact that all increases beyond contributions are treated as earnings/ordinary income causes annuities to be more expensive to access during retirement than a taxable mutual fund. The end result is that from a mathematical perspective, saving the $1 per day in a regular mutual fund allows you to be better off.
Of course, there are some instances outside of the realm of mathematics where annuities may indeed make sense. For example, since annuities are classified as insurance contracts, they are likely to be more shielded from creditors than a traditional mutual fund account. Further, many offer some sort of death benefit guarantee. Finally, the fact that annuities do have the 10% withdrawal penalty can be beneficial if you are the type of person that might be tempted to access a mutual fund account prematurely.
However, it is my belief that for the majority of “normal” folks, saving the $1 per day in a regular mutual fund account with Vanguard or Fidelity will beat out an annuity.
How about you all? What type of savings vehicle do you use to save money for your child’s financial future?
If you don’t currently save in this fashion, hypothetically, which type of savings account do you think would be best suited for your needs if you were to do so?
Share your experiences by commenting below!
***Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/86530412@N02/7960787444/sizes/m

Retirement Planning.
Do these words instantly make your eyes glaze over? For many people, it does. It’s like that statistics class that you wonder all semester when you’ll ever use the information the instructor is droning on and on about each day.
The thing is, you can’t afford to not pay attention.
During orientation for my first job, I was informed that I could contribute to a 401K plan, and that my employer had matching funds for the first 3%. Sounded like a great deal, so I started off contributing 2%. I felt good about myself, I was doing the adult thing and planning for my retirement. But was I contributing enough to accumulate a big enough nest egg for the retirement I wanted? Did I even know what that meant?
I didn’t have a clue, and worse yet, I didn’t talk to anyone.
The first time I talked to anyone about my retirement goals was five years into my marriage when my wife was pregnant with our first child. We visited with our life insurance representative about our changing needs to the imminent addition to our family. He helped us set some reasonable retirement goals, and a plan of action to achieve them. I upped our 401K contributions to be inline with our action plan, and figured we were good to go.
I went along like this for several years. At some point, I thought it would be a good idea to take a closer look at the 401K statements that showed up in my mailbox every three months. I thought I was being smart by diversifying my contributions across several funds that my employer had available within the 401K such as a Large Company Fund, Small Company Fund, and even an International Fund. When I took a look at how each fund was performing, I noticed that the fund I had been sinking the majority of my money into was giving me a return of less than half of some of the other funds.
Another mistake that may have cost me tens of thousands of dollars.
Here’s a simple example to show how much even a small percentage change in your rate of return can affect your investments. Let’s say that at a person contributes $300 a month from the day he starts his first job at age 22, until the day he retires 40 years later. Now, let’s say that his investments give him a rate of return of 4% per year, compounded quarterly.
$300 a month for 480 months, rate of growth of 4% compounded quarterly = $353,415.92
What happens if we up the rate of growth a single percent?
$300 a month for 480 months, rate of growth of 5% compounded quarterly = $455,341.69
In our very simple example, that’s a difference of over $100K, or an net increase of close to 29%!! You can see how paying attention to your investments can dramatically change your financial picture for retirement.
I quickly called my insurance representative who invited me to pay him a visit to re-evaluate my retirement goals as well as the growth performance of my retirement funds. He half-jokingly scolded me for not calling him for so long. But the realization of how I had handled my retirement savings taught me two very important lessons:
Retirement goals are not a one time “set it and forget it” deal: As you progress throughout life, your goals will change and you need to adjust your retirement planning accordingly.
Review your retirement fund growth periodically: When you calculate projected retirement savings, you use an estimated average growth rate. It is essential to check how your funds are doing periodically to see if you need to adjust where your money is invested, or your contributions based upon how your money is growing.
We have had to halt our retirement contributions over the last 4 and a half years while we were enrolled in our debt management program and concentrating on paying off our consumer debt. With only 4 months to go until we complete our program, it’s time to schedule another appointment to go over our retirement goals, and examine how our money is growing.
We have goals for retirement, and through careful and constant planning we aim to achieve them.
How about you readers, how often do you re-evaluate your retirement goals? When was the last time you did so?
Image courtesy of hyena reality / FreeDigitalPhotos.net