All posts by Jacob A Irwin

Aldi vs. Wal-Mart vs. All the Rest



As you all might know, the Northeast isn’t too fond of Wal-Mart. Furthermore, they are less fond of putting Wal-Mart Supercenters every 4 miles around the neighborhoods. As a result, the nearest Wal-Mart Supercenter is 10 miles south (so about 30 min in the Northeast traffic) as opposed to in Virginia and Arkansas where I last lived, where there were two Supercenters within 3 mi of my house. Irregardless of your opinion of Wal-Mart, the store, because of its influence, can be the source of some interesting comparisons.

So, with the Wal-Mart Supercenter 30 minutes away from my house, I have been going to the local grocery stores (Genuardis, Giant, Weigmans, etc) to get my food, and just going to the local regular Wal-Mart for household items.

However, tonight, I decided to give Aldi a try. They have a store that is only 2 minutes from my house, and I hadn’t been to one since sophomore year of college.

When I arrived, I quickly realized that I was totally unprepared because everything about the store translates to savings for the consumer.

First, when you park in the parking lot, you notice that there are no stray shopping baskets taking up spaces. Why is this? Because you have to place a quarter deposit in to the shopping basket in order to get a shopping cart. You get the quarter back when you return the cart, but this very act eliminates numerous jobs that are occupied at all other grocery stores and Wal-Marts across the country. Genius!

Second, at the entrance, it says in big bold print that they don’t accept credit cards or checks!!! haha Amazing! However, they do accept debit cards or cash. This just further decreases their expenses.

Third, there are no shelves in the store. The goods/products are merely stacked in the boxes they arrive on. What does this mean? You got it. You don’t need a Wal-Mart representative whose sole job is dedicated to negotiating where the Pringles can will sit on the shelf. Genius!

Fourth, Aldi almost absolutely (with only a few minor exceptions) sells their private label that they themselves distribute. This would be the same if you could imagine Wal-Mart only selling their Great Value label. Genius!

Fifth – the number of employees. The entire time I was there, I only saw one Aldi employee, and that was the one guy checking people out.

Sixth, Aldi doesn’t refrigerate items that don’t need to be refrigerated (This includes certain lettuce and other vegetables that don’t need to be kept cool).

Seventh – the check out process. Like I said before, you can’t use a credit card, which further cuts down Aldi’s costs. Next, you have to purchase your own bags or bring your own. Finally, the cashier does not bag or containerize your items. You have to do that yourself.

So, with all these potential areas for savings, how does Aldi stack up? Well, according to the article at the link below, they are 29% cheaper than Wal-Mart and 86% cheaper than the local grocery stores. I now believe this, having taken a trip there.


Grocery Price Comparison Article

The following is an excerpt from the article – “Here is where Aldi really shines, with rock bottom prices even cheaper than Walmart’s store brands. Nearly 29% cheaper than Walmart and 32.5% less than Target. The two supermarkets were 86% and 76.3% more expensive on these private label products than Aldi.” 

Looking over my receipt today, here are several of the purchases that amazed me the most:

  • 10 lbs of potatoes – $2.50
  • Tropical Fruit Salad – $0.79 – I know this is $1.00 or more at Wal-Mart
  • 5 lbs of lasagna – $2.69 – wow!
  • 4 lbs of fuji apples for $3.12



Given the evidence, what’s the bottom line?


Aldi definitely saves you money if you are willing to work a little extra for your groceries and pass up getting “name brand” items. However, in a tough economy, it just might be the thing to do!


Keep on learning!


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Requests for Future Blog Topics and Guest Posting

Hello fellow readers!

I wanted to share two things with you all so that you know they are available:

Request for Topics
If anyone has a request for a topic they’d like me to research and post, please just write it on the comments area of this post or email me at irwin.jacob@gmail.com.

Guest Posting
Also, I just found out that I can assign multiple people as being able to post to this blog. So, if you have a topic that you know a lot about and would be beneficial to share with the My Money Blog family, please just let me know!

Keep on learning!

Jacob

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Promote Yourself or Your Business with FREE Business Cards

I wanted to share a wonderful find that I discovered about 5 years ago, and have now used successfully four times!

What is it?  FREE business cards from Vistaprint.com

Business cards are truly a great thing – good for networking, retaining people’s contact information, advertising your business, or making yourself stand out at an interview by being more “professional.”

I have used/designed free business cards from Vistaprint for the four applications shown below over the past several years:

  • Created a personal card with my contact information and a summary of my skills/qualification to be used at networking events and during interviews.
  • Created a card with my web address for this blog in order to post on bulletin boards to advertise.
  • Created a card for the pet waste removal service I started in 2006.
  • Created a card for the eBay business I started in 2004 reselling people’s items.
Quick Note: If you are thinking of starting up a website for your business or personal use, I would recommend buying the domain and hosting with GoDaddy.com. I have worked with them on all of my sites, and they are always very user friendly. The link to their special offer is shown below!

Go Daddy $7.49.com Sale

To get your own free business cards, just follow the simple steps below:

1) Click on the picture/link below to go to the Vistaprint site

2) Within in the site, go to the business card section, and select that you want to create a free business card. There are several restrictions that Vistaprint keeps you to in order to make it possible to have free business cards – you can not print on both sides of the card and the background design has to be kept as the default tree/country scene.

3) You can then click through the options and build your card line by line. Quick tip: make sure that you don’t fill the card up too much so there is sufficient free space around the outside of the card.

4) When you are finished, proceed to the checkout process, opting out of any of the additional advertised products/services. The total will be around $7-$9 for shipping/handling fees.

5) The business cards will then be shipped to you within several business days!

Couldn’t be easier, right?! Right!
Keep on learning!

Jacob

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Find and Eliminate Your Latte Factor – Save Big Money

In this addition of My Money Blog (Yes – That’s right, I’ve been watching too many episodes of MythBusters lately on my instant Netflix cue), we’ll discuss a topic that I learned in the very first book I ever read about personal finance and frugal living, David Bach’s “Automatic Millionaire.” I would definitely recommend you order a copy of this book used from Amazon. I’ve provided the link below if anyone is interested! You can’t beat Amazon – $0.94 for a great book! I love it.

One of the best topics David introduces in this book is the idea of a “Latte Factor.” The idea behind this is that for people that buy a latte from Starbucks everyday for $3, this compounds to a lot of money over time. The same can be said for all sorts of luxury purchases made everyday. The article from MSN below summarizes some of these additional purchases to think about.
10 Expenses that Add Up Fast – MSN Money Central

So what’s the big deal? Why is spending such a little amount of money every day a bad thing? Doesn’t it enhance my life? Well, the bad news is that if this money was instead saved and invested for the long-term, the miracle of compound interest will kick in, and you will have a lot of money by the time retirement comes.

The website from MSN gives 10 examples, but let’s take my two favorite ones because, well, I’m writing this blog, and get to do what I want to do. 🙂 Just kidding.

Finding Your Latte Factor – Buying Coffee and Lunch Every Workday

According to the MSN website, the average cup of brewed coffee costs $1.38 (this seems a little low, but OK). This would translate to $360 per year to buy a cup of coffee every workday. The average lunch during the workweek costs $9 (this seems a little high, but I just spent $11 on lunch today for a sandwich and salad at my company’s cafeteria because I forgot to pack my lunch). This would translate to $2,340 per year to buy lunch every workday.

Adding these two numbers together results in a sum of $2,700 per year for lunch and a cup of coffee. This is getting to be a lot of money!

Applying the miracle of compound interest, let’s assume you start work when you are 23 y.o, work until you are 65 y.o, and take the $2,700 you save by NOT buying coffee and lunch each day at work and invest it in a small cap value index mutual fund with a historical return of 12.4%.

Doing the math, this translates to a nest-egg of $2,930,299.20 when you retire at age 65. Wow!

What’s the take-home message here? Well, first, probably you should try to bring your lunch more and brew your own coffee at home! But, honestly, it’s not that you should eliminate all purchases in your life, but just to be mindful about recurring ones that you may not think are costing you that much each day.

Keep on learning!

Jacob
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Build Your Credit Score From Nothing – Part 3

How To Build Your Credit Score from Nothing – Part 3
“Take out a small personal loan at a local bank”
In Part 1 of this series, I discussed how to begin building your child’s credit score/history by getting him/her a student credit card in their name. In Part 2, I showed everyone how to use bills that you pay for your apartment or house in college to further build your history. See the links below if you missed Parts 1 or 2 of this series.
In the third part of this series, I’ll show you a very effective and easy method that I used to build my credit history and make up for the ground I lost by not following the instructions from Part 1 and 2 of this series.
What is this method you may be asking? Good question. It is taking out a small personal loan at a local bank!
While at first this may sound hard, simply follow the steps below, and you will be on your way to building a good line of credit history!
Obtaining a Small Personal Loan with Little or No Credit History
1) Find out the names and addresses of 2-3 good local banks in your area, either by recommendations from people you know, online, or in the yellow pages. The key to this is that it has to be a smaller, local bank! It can’t be a Wachovia or Bank of America, etc. Why is that? Easy! Small banks are desperate for new customers and to establish their name in the area, and they will be willing to take on the added trouble of giving you such a small loan in exchange for the potential for your business in the future.
2) Go to the bank, ask to speak to the loan officer.
3) Explain to them exactly what you are doing – you want to open up a small personal loan ($1000 is a good round number) with a one year payback period to build your credit history, and have no intention or desire to actually use or spend the money. This will make them feel all warm and fuzzy inside. They love security!
4) If they don’t suggest it already, recommend that you also want to open up a CD account at that same bank for the same $$ amount of the loan and use it as collateral against the loan. See how that works? No risk for either party.

Once you have settled on an arrangement that will work for both sides, you can then delve in to figuring out the specifics of the loan (i.e. interest rate you will be charged).

5) After finding out the details of what the $1000 personal loan would entail, tell the loan officer that you want to shop around a little before making your final decision. He/she will completely understand (or should anyway). Then, go to the 1-2 other recommended local banks on your list and do a loan comparison in order to make sure you’re receiving the most favorable terms.

6) After comparing the loan offers from the different banks you visited and deciding which fits your situation the best, fill out all of the loan and CD paper work, and open up a checking account at that same bank as well. The checking account will be where you place the loan money so that you can transfer it directly to pay off your loan payments each month. This can all be set up automatically too! You don’t want to pay off the entire loan all at once. Distribute the payments evenly and in small increments over the entire year in order to gain more improvement to your credit score.
7) After the year passes by and the loan is paid off, discontinue the CD account, transfer the $1000 locked up in that to your normal checking account, and then close your loan and checking account for cash.
8) VIOLA! – You have just built your credit further with little to no risk! Genius!

Keep on eye out for Part 4 of this series, coming soon!

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Keep on learning!
Jacob

Build Your Credit Score From Nothing – Part 2

How to Build Your Credit Score/History From Nothing – Part 2
“Pay bills for your apartment or house in your name”

In Part 1 of this series, I walked everyone through how they can give their high-school age child a financial headstart in life by getting them their own student credit card at an early age and begin accumulating a credit history. See the link below to that post if you missed it.

Part 1 – Build Your Credit Score From Nothing

In Part 2, I’ll discuss another very important and easy way to build your credit history – simply paying your for you housing in your name. It seems simple, but many things can get in the way of you doing this correctly.

So, let’s take me as an example because I am someone who missed this opportunity while I was in college.

For the first year of college, I lived in the dorms on campus. Because everything is paid directly to the univerisity and included in one lump sum, there were no utility, phone, or internet bills in my name to build credit history. During the 2nd – 4th years of college, I lived in a house that one of my friend’s family owned. To make things easier, I paid his family a lump payment each month that included utilities. You guessed it! No bills were in my name, and therefore, no credit history.

So, as sad as it is, I made it through college without ever paying one bill in my name. Amazing! This exact same situation can also happen to people who have their own apartment if the bills are placed in their parents name and mailed to an address half way across the state so that the college student never even sees it!

What’s the moral of the story here?

Rent an apartment or house in college, get the bills placed in your name (not your roomates, not your parents, YOURS!), and accumulate a generous amount of credit history before you are even out in to the real world!

Keep an eye out for Part 3 of this series – coming soon. Click on the link below to subscribe to my blog and have it sent to you when it is posted.

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Keep on learning!

Jacob

Go To Build Your Credit Score From Nothing – Part 3 – “Take Out a Small Personal Loan”

What Moving Expenses Can I Deduct on My Taxes?

If you’ve recently moved because of a job relocation (greater than the required distance by the IRS), you have no doubt wondered what expenses are eligible to deduct on your taxes associated with the move.

To answer this question question in the most straight-forward, no frills way possible, I put together the list of eligible deductions below to help you save money moving:

  • Hotels/lodging en route to your new home. Save your receipts.
  • Gas expenses incurred en route. Save your receipts.
  • Household goods relocation services/fees associated with your move. Save your receipts.
  • Mileage added to your car during the move. For 2009, the standard deduction rate was $0.24 per mile (see link below). For example, in my move from VA to PA, the distance was 293 miles. 293 mi x $0.24 per mi = $70.32 to deduct on my taxes.

2009 IRS Standard Mileage Deduction Rates

There you go! Plain and simple for you!

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Keep on learning!

Jacob

My Individual Stocks Gain or Loss Results Reported for 2009 Taxes

One of my favorite things about tax time each year is calculating the “gain” realized on the stocks that I sold in the associated tax year. You may be asking yourself, “Why is this such a great exercise?” Truth be told, it probably is not that enjoyable for some people, but it is for me because it just further highlights/reinforces that investing in individual stocks is not a worthwhile exercise for me (and I believe for most people).

So, let’s look at my gains (or losses) for the past two years tax calculations resulting from the individual stocks that I sold vs. the performance of the S&P 500 index:

Year 2008 — $300 loss, S&P500 return = 40% loss
Year 2009 — $592 loss, S&P500 return = 26% gain

So, in 2008, I did all right as compared to the market, but in 2009, the proceeds from the stocks sold in my accounts generated far inferior results.

Just a little background on why I have stock holdings at all:
I have stock holdings remaining still my my first couple years of investing where I dabbled around with different techniques, penny stocks, investing newsletter, etc. Now that I have seen the light and the error in my ways, I no longer actively buy individual stocks, unless it is such a small amount that it is truly just to “play around with.”

What’s the morale of the story here?

For me, it just indicates further the following things:

1) Stick to long-term investing in index mutual funds, preferably in tax-sheltered accounts.
2) I do not trust myself enough with my own money to invest in individual stocks, especially over the long term.

Keep on learning!

Jacob

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Stop Using Cash or Your Debit Card, Make Money

I have a question for everyone out there reading this. Which of the following choices is better?
a) A 100% loss
b) A 99% loss
The answer is clear: a 99% loss would be better than a total/complete loss any day. Since this answer is so simple, I wanted to share something that breaks my heart every time I see it when I am out with friends so everyone can ponder it.
Scenario: I am out eating dinner or having some beer with my friends. We are having a great time – good conversation, tasty beer with lots of hops in it, and good food. Next, it comes time to pay and go home. Everyone pulls out their preferred method of payment, and what do I see?
A mixture of 1) credit cards with benefits, 2) credit cards without benefits, 3) debit cards, 4) and cash!
Choices 2, 3, and 4 give you a 100% loss on your purchase. Choice 1 gives a 99% loss or less.
So, my question then becomes, “Why bother paying with cash, debit cards, or credit cards that have no benefits or cash back?” Once they provide a sub-par answer, I the proceed to encourage them to apply for one of the many cash-back or other benefit credit cards available at one of the links listed below that will enable them to make money.
You may be asking yourself, “What would be the reasons/circumstances when you would want to use a debit card or cash instead of a credit card with benefits?” I believe there are three situations when it is beneficial to abstain from using your favorite credit card.
1) When your purchase is less than $2, and you feel bad for making the establishment from which you are purchasing pay the credit card fee for such a small amount.
2) You are unable to control your spending if you have credit cards, and you keep getting yourself farther and farther in to debt by using your card.
3) You are in another country, and using a credit card incurs a foreign currency fee.
So, visit those websites and select a cash back (or other type of benefit) credit card that you like, and start saving money!
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Keep on learning!
Jacob

Build Your Credit Score From Nothing – Part 1

Build Your Credit Score/History from Nothing – Part 1

“Credit Card for Your High Schooler”

Back in 2006 while I was taking a finance class at a local community college, I was informed of the cash-back benefits of having and spending money on a credit card. Therefore, in my normal curious way, I went online and tried to apply for one of these credit cards.
The result? I found out that I had little to no credit history available (and certainly not enough for them to grant me use of a quality credit card). I then began to ask around about the reasons for this. What I found out were essentially three things that I could do (but hadn’t yet at the time) to build my credit score. These three topics will be the centerpiece of the four-part blog series that will follow.
Part 1 – Help Your High-Schooler Build His/Her Credit Score by Getting Them a Credit Card in Their Name
As I mentioned previously, one of the reasons that I did not have any credit history was due to the fact that through high-school and college, I never had a credit card account that I paid off over time. 
What I did have was a credit card with my name on it that was requested as an add-on to my Dad’s credit card account. Because it wasn’t a separate account, it just involved HIS credit history and had nothing to do with me except for me being able to use it since my name was on it. That make sense? Good!
In my opinion, what I should have done in high-school was to apply for a separate credit card/account (in my name) for what’s called a “student credit card.” See the link below for a listing of student credit cards. Essentially, student credit cards are great starter credit cards because they require little to no credit history to sign up, and they start out with low credit limits to reduce the risk of overspending and accruing large amounts of credit card debt.

It should be noted New Federal laws impose restrictions on issuing credit cards to individuals under 21 unless the applicant has the independent ability to repay debt, or has an adult co-signer who agrees to accept joint liability for the account. Having an adult co-signer on the account is OK, as long as it is a separate account, in the teen’s name.


Now that you are convinced of the efficacy of this idea, what’s the best way to go about setting this up for your teen?

1) Go to the link above. Select any one of the credit cards (DO NOT GET A PREPAID DEBIT CARD) that has no annual fee to apply for.

2) Fill out the application for the selected credit card, placing yourself, the parent, as a co-signer if needed.

3) Once you are approved, wait for the credit card to come in the mail.

4) When it comes in the mail, take the opportunity to sit down with your teen and set up his/her online account for them. This is also a great tool to use to teach your child all sorts of personal finance tactics! Explain that the card will not be used for everyday purchases, but instead, to build his/her credit score for the future.

5) Next, since this is a starter credit card, you have two options in my opinion: a) Set up some kind of automatic, recurring payment using the credit card each month, or b) Write yourself and your teen a reminder each month to use the credit card for one or two purchases on a set day.

6) Do not give the credit card to your teen. Place the credit card in your wallet or purse and explain that you will hold on to it for safe-keeping.

Well, that’s it! Not too hard right?! This will give your child a great financial head start on life in no time!

Important Tip – closing credit card accounts hurts your credit score

After you have opened up a student credit card account for your child, used it for some time, and built up a good amount of credit history, you may be tempted to close the account, since you (or your child) really don’t need it any more.

However, closing down the old credit card account will actually lower your credit score in two ways:

  • First, it decreases your credit history, which accounts for 15% of your credit score.
  • Second, it increases your credit utilization rate (% of the total credit available to you that you currently use).

So, the key takeaway here is that if the credit card is no longer used, lock it away in the family safe, check the balance every month or so to make sure no fraudulent activity is occuring, and go about your life!
Keep an eye out for Part 2 of this series coming soon. Please subscribe to my blog feed using the link below to have it sent to you immediately once it is published!

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Keep on learning!

Jacob

Go to – Build Your Credit Score From Nothing – Part 2 – “Pay housing bills in your name”

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